my scandinavian home: Four Day Travel Guide: Helsingborg, Helsingør and Kullaberg

my scandinavian home: Four Day Travel Guide: Helsingborg, Helsingør and Kullaberg


In paid collaboration with Visit Helsingborg. Thank you to Visit Helsingborg for making this trip possible. All words and pictures are my own and I genuinely love this part of the world so it was a pleasure to produce this guide! 

Helsingborg, what a great Swedish city! I received so much positive feedback from my Helsingborg city guide last summer, I thought I'd create a follow-up to include some of the beautiful surroundings. 

I am a big fan of the area as my husband is from Helsingborg. I've also had the opportunity to spend plenty of time in the surrounding area since Per's father and stepmother live in a charming fishing village in Kullaberg - a peninsula and nature reserve jutting out into the Kattegat Sea, north of the city. I have to say, the region is a firm favourite of mine. If you love art, farm shops, vineyards, spectacular coastlines and great food, you're bound to fall in love too! 

I've also extended my guide to include a day trip to the picturesque Danish town of Helsingør - a short 20-minute ferry ride over the Öresund strait. Helsingør is home to the UNESCO heritage site Kronborg castle - the home of Hamlet and a perfect place to wander the cobble streets in search Danish antiques, second hand clothes and experience a buzzing restaurant and cafe scene. Ready to feel inspired? Here's my four-day guide to the area. 

Getting there: the southern Sweden city of Helsingborg is easily accessible by train from Copenhagen airport, Malmö and Stockholm. You can also arrive by ferry from Helsingør Denmark. 

Day one - Helsingborg

Check-in at Elite Hotel Mollberg


Occupying a historic 14th century building on Stortorget a short walk from the train station, Elite Hotel Mollberg's couldn't be better located. Plus the impeccably decorated restaurant / breakfast area and the beautiful high ceilings and period features will send your design heart into a flutter! 

Explore Helsingborg 

There is so much to do in this wonderful city. See my guide to 48 hours in Helsingborg last summer for all my favourite sites, design shops, cafes and restaurants! 
You might like to pay a visit during the forthcoming H22 City Expo (30th May - 3rd July 2022) which promises a full schedule of exciting cultural events, guided tours, music and entertainment and gastronomical experiences for all ages!
Kärnen
Something I missed in my previous guide but well worth a visit is Kärnen. Located in the centre of town by Stortorget, the medieval tower is the last remaining section of a larger fortress built by the Danes. It controlled the entranceway between the Kattegat and Øresundsbron sea along with Kronborg castle in Helsingør. Standing 35 metres high, a spiral staircase will lead you to the top, from where you can enjoy spectacular views - and get your breath back!

Sofiero

A cycle or bus ride from Helsinborg will take you to the magnificent Sofiero castle and grounds which bursts into life in springtime. My family and I often visit for a stroll around the gardens, to nip into the nursery shop, see the latest exhibition and enjoy lunch at the Orangeriet. I've even been to a few open-air concerts here - keep an eye on the events calendar for details! 
Recover from your day by treating yourself to a culinary experience at Chateau Foret (listed in the White Guide), or head to the water's edge and tuck into seafood at one of my favourite restaurants: Sillen & Makrillen

Day Two - Helsingør, Denmark

Hop on a ForSea battery-operated ferry to Helsingør - the picturesque Danish town on the opposite side of the strait. There are about four boats and hour and the 20-minute, 4-kilometre crossing will take you straight to the town centre. 

Per explained that some Swedes never get off the boat - choosing to go back and forward across the sound while enjoying the lively ferry bar (I saw it in full swing later on in the day - he wasn't kidding)!

Kronborg Castle, Helsingør


You can't visit Helsingør and not go to Kronborg castle! Known as Elsinore in William Shakespeare's play Hamlet, Kronborg is a 15th century renaissance castle and a designated UNESCO world heritage site. Keep an eye on the official website for guided tours, treasure hunts and open-air plays. 

Stroll the streets 

An easy day trip from Copenhagen (and an even easier one from Helsingborg!), Helsingør is incredibly picturesque. Take good walking shoes as you'll want to take your time to wander the pretty cobblestone streets and small courtyards while popping in and out of boutique stores! 

Antique and second-hand stores

The bustling town is full of small antique, vintage and second-hand stores selling unique Danish treasures. I particularly loved Bror & Søster, situated down a small side lane off the main shopping drag. 

Another favourite is the tiny Louies Brocante which spills out onto the cobbled backstreet.
Keep a look out for the Saturday flea markets on Svingelport (0.00 - 15.00). Arrive early for the best bargains and enjoy live music, a great coffee and a Danish pastry at Lagoni

A word of warning, many shops close as early as 14.00 - 15.00 on Saturdays so go early to make the most of your trip! 

There are many great places for lunch - including seafood restaurant Jellyfish. As a Helsinborg guy, Per insisted we paid a nostalgic visit to the main square - along with throngs of other Swedes - to tuck into a traditional Danish smørrebød (open sandwich) accompanied by a Carlsberg (of course) and a customary shot of snaps! The square had such a wonderful, lively atmosphere (it could have had something to do with the snaps!) - we could have stayed all day! 

But our ferry was waiting, and it was time to head back to Helsinborg to continue with the tour! 

Day Three - Höganäs and Mölle



A 40-minute ride on the 220 bus will take you from Helsingborg to the small coastal town of Höganäs, in Kullaberg. 

Salthallerna, Höganäs

I always start my visit to Höganäs at Salthallerna. The former industrial site is home to a great homeware and clothing boutique as well as a host of art exhibitions. You might want to stay for a while as it also has a great cafe selling divine tasting kanelbulla (cinnamon buns). Keep a look out for a new restaurant and BadAss Ceramics opening soon! 

Saltglaserat ceramics 

Next door, you'll find the famous Höganäs Saltglaserat workshop and store where you can watch the potters in action and pick up beautiful ceramics to take home.

Garage Bar & Höganäs Bryggeri

Around the corner you'll find Garage Bar - famed for it's 'nothing less than junk food royal' slogan - needless to say our kids love it! And Höganäs Bryggeri where you can sample locally produced brews (a favourite of Per's!). 
Keep an eye on the events calendar for Blå Hallen - a short walk away. It hosts some amazing flea markets in the summer! 

Kvikbadet

Feeling like you need to re-energise? Book a slot at the wonderful Kvickbadhuset sauna by the harbour. We often go as an extended family on big holidays such as Christmas and Easter, it's a wonderful way to cleanse the mind, body and soul!

Bike tour from Höganäs to Mölle



If you're feeling energetic, hire a bike in Höganäs harbour and follow the Kategattleden to Mölle. It's hard to say how long it takes as I kept stopping to take pictures and enjoy the view - but it's around 10 km and an easy ride - very flat! 

The bike trail follows a disused, converted railway line which takes you along the coast, passing farmland, forests and small, pretty fishing villages, including Nyhamnsläge and Lerhamn. 

Krapperup Castle

Don't miss signs to Krapperup castle (as a Brit it took me a while to get over the name!) along the way (for those who opted for the 222 bus instead - there's a bus stop right outside!). The grounds of the 16th century castle are beautiful - especially when the rhodendrums are in full bloom. You'll also love the cosy cafe, art gallery and boutique. 

Mölle


Continue your cycle ride through the nature reserve until you come to the picturesque 19th century fishing village of Mölle (bus number 222 will also take you from Höganäs to Mölle) and then rest your weary legs quench your thirst at one of the many Harbourside cafes and restaurants. 

Check in to Grand Hotel Mölle

Follow in the footsteps of smart, early 20th century holiday makers, who flocked to Mölle by train to enjoy a rejuvenating stint at this 'badhotell' (bath hotel), today known as Grand hotel Mölle. Per and I stayed in the turret which had wonderful views over Mölle!

Mölle Krukmakeri


You can't visit this village without popping into Mölle Krukmakeri - a ceramics atelier and popular boho hangout, serving great pizza! I have several of their bowls at home too. 

Hike to Kullens Lighthouse

Depending on how you arrived in Mölle, you might be feeling energetic enough to hike along the coast Northwards to Kullens Lighthouse - climbing over granite rocks dotted with pink thrift, and through incredible ancient beech forests as you go . Take your swimmers - there are plenty of bathing places along the way! If you're short on time but still want to take in the views from the tip of the peninsular, there's also a parking spot 300 metres away. 

Cocktails and supper at Ransvik Havsvaranda 

On the way back from the lighthouse, you'll pass Ransvik Havsvaranda - an absolutely wonderful restaurant nestled in the cliff overlooking the sea. On summer evenings it comes alive with locals enjoying cocktails and dinner out on the terrace. 

Day Four - Arild - and the Kullaberg countryside

I've packed in a LOT activities on day three - so you might want to take your foot of the peddle and save some of the areas around Mölle for the fourth day. In summertime there are lots of extra activities available such as s whale and propose boat safari in the Kullaberg nature reserve. There are also many wonderful trails to explore by foot or mountain bike! 
On your way back to Helsingborg, take a short detour to the pretty fishing village of Arild, stopping off at Flickorna Lundgren for a traditional fika (coffee and cake).

Another favourite stop is the restaurant and farm shop Trädgården På Skäret - I'm told their oyster and champagne lunch in summertime is not to be missed! It looks like I'll need to return to the area soon! 

I hope you'll find this guide useful, and it might inspire you to come and explore this wonderful part of the world! 

If you'd like to visit Helsingborg soon, why not come during the H22 City Expo between 30th may - 3 July 2022. The 30-day event promises captivating, exhilarating and innovative cultural attractions, exhibitions, talks, music and entertainment for all ages and gastronomical experiences. Find out more about the H22 City Expo and plan your visit

Please do feel free to add your own tips from the area below - there are so many amazing places to visit that I'd need to write an entire tome to cover them all! 

Wishing you a great weekend!

Niki

Photography: copyright - Niki Brantmark / My Scandinavian Home



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Hannes' Beautiful Helsingborg Home Is On The Market!

Hannes’ Beautiful Helsingborg Home Is On The Market!


I'm finishing off the blog week with some good news: Hannes Mauritzson and his partner are selling their flat. OK, if you're well settled where you are, this might not be that good news - save for the fact that we get to drool over the beautiful room-by-room photos all over again (I featured it last year)! But if you're looking to move to Helsinborg, Sweden (lifestyle change anyone?), this is surely excellent news. Hannes' apartment is stunning! There's the architecture dating back to 1907, subtle yet warm tones, and of course the beautiful blend of furniture, a combination of old and new - although sadly I doubt this comes with the flat! All-in-all it's 90 metres square / 968 feet square of charm. Could you imagine living here? Take the tour and discover for yourself! 

Lovely! 

I could happily see myself rocking about here all weekend, how about you? 

Right folks, that's it from me this week.

Har en jätte trevligt helg allihopa! 

Niki



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48 Hours in Helsingborg, Sweden

48 Hours in Helsingborg, Sweden


In paid collaboration with Visit Helsingborg. Thank you to Visit Helsingborg for making this guide possible. All words and pictures are my own and I genuinely love this city and the places I mention. 

I'm often asked which other Swedish city I would live in. The answer is Helsingborg. Not only is it just up the coast (around 50 km North of Malmö), it's also Per's hometown and where his Mother still lives today.  Located on the shores of the Öresund Strait opposite Helsingør in Denmark, Helsingborg is Sweden's eighth largest city (with a population of 150,000) making it small enough to feel cosy and intimate - yet large enough to feel full of energy. From boutique shops, and cultural events to lush gardens and a vineyard - there's plenty to do over the space of a weekend! 

With my very own local guide in Per and some great tips from Evelina at Visit Helsingborg, it was easy to wile away a weekend in this wonderful town. Here's my guide: 

Where to stay: 

V Hotel: I love a small boutique hotel, and V Hotel was wonderful! Bang in the centre of town, it's been recently refurnished to a high standard with every room offering something unique. It's cosy, personal and  the breakfast was excellent! 
Elite Hotel Mollberg: Located on Stortorget (the main square) in Helsingborg, Elite Hotel Mollberg is situated in a historic building dating back too the 14th century and is full of character and charm. 
Clarion Sea U: This recently opened large, luxurious hotel invites guests to enjoy a gym, rooftop pool, gym and a restaurant and bar overlooking the sea.  

Getting there: 

Train: Helsingborg has excellent rail connections with Copenhagen Airport, Malmö and Gothenburg. 

Bus: There's a regular bus service between major cities including Stockholm, Malmö, Copenhagen and Oslo. 

Car: Take the E4 from Stockholm or E6 from Malmö. 

Boat: It's a 20-minute ferry ride from Helsingør, Denmark with ferries departing every 15 minutes. 

Plane: Ängelholm-Helsingborg, Malmö Sturup and Copenhagen are all within easy reach. 

Getting around: Everything in the city is within an easy stroll, however if you'd like to travel to areas a little further afield, an e-bike is a great option (available from the Travel Shop). There's also a well connected bus network. 

Day 1: Design shopping, lunch by the sea and a visit to Fredriksdal


Shopping: There's nothing like shopping in a different city for a day, don't you think? And Helsingborg is filled with boutique shops. Wander along Kullagatan, the main pedestrian street where most you'll find most of the major city shops, but take your time to wonder up the smaller lanes too - there are some hidden gems to be found!

Design / homeware boutiques: The city boasts a few really wonderful interior design shops, often selling items you won't find elsewhere. 

Pop into Världsbutiken fair trade store for gifts and say 'hej' to my Mother-in-law, who volunteers here several days a week. And then head to Frånö Antik Bod for Swedish antiques. 

If you look carefully on Drottninggatan you'll come across the well hidden shop front of By Mouritzen - where a treasure trove of unique homeware awaits. I picked up curled candles, vowing to return for bigger items. 

Lunch stop



There are SO MANY lunch options in the city. If you'd like to stay bang in the centre, tuck into Italian at Olsons Skafferi - a cosy restaurant opposite Sankta Maria church on picturesque Maria Torget (square).

Locals also love Etoile - a relaxed French bistro which reportedly serves the best cappuccino in town. It's a great place for breakfast, lunch or dinner, and a little birdie tells me, a favourite of local hero, former footballer Henrik 'Henke' Larsson! 

Alternatively, if it's beautiful weather, head down to the harbour and stroll North along the sea front promenade - enjoying views of the sandy beach and Denmark just over the sound until you come to the popular beach bar: Fria Bad & Bar. 

The lively and relaxed diner is nestled has a wonderful location overlooking the beach. Tuck into burgers, pizzas and all kinds of sea food. It's perfect for people watching, or simply enjoying the view over a cool beer, glass of rosé or house favourite - Aperol Spritz! It's a great place to hang out at sunset too! 


Energy renewed, head to Kärnan - a medieval tower with great views - before strolling along Landborg promenade to my favourite shop Butik Linnea! 

Note: if you'd like more of a walk, continue along the promenade through lush greenery and over hills with great views off the city! 

If you love plants, pots, interiors and cool Swedish and Danish clothing brands and a good cafe - you'll be in shop heaven! I could have stayed for hours but alas, Per was waiting and we had a tight schedule to keep - so I vowed to return to Butik Linnea another time and make an afternoon of it. What a perfect excuse to come back. 

Fredriksdal


Located on the higher plain of Helsingborg, Fredriksdal is one of the largest open-air museums in Sweden and not to be missed! Truth be told, it was BAKING that day but we still got to experience the botanical gardens (including the magnificent rose garden), historical vegetable and herb gardens, historical buildings and the well preserved town quarter which is now a museum - all of which we loved! 

I was particularly taken by the Grafiska Museet - the largest working graphic museum in the Nordics (the shop is great too!) and the Trädgårdscafé which sells the best cakes! 

If you visit Fredriksdal, keep an eye on the daily schedules and calendar for guided walks, forest bathing and various talks. I'm looking forward to returning on a cooler day! 

Back in the centre of town, Dunkers Kulturhus features an excellent exhibitions calendar and is child friendly too! 

Dine out at Sillen & Makrillen

It’s almost impossible to dine closer to the sea than at my favourite Helsingborg restaurant Sillen & Makrillen. Located right over the water, it offers dreamy views of the Öresund strait. Tuck into a variety of seasonal dishes (I loved my white asparagus with locally foraged mushrooms) and a variety of fish dishes fresh from the sea. Yum! 

PS this place is also great in winter when the sea shows it's rough and wild side! 

Day 2: Explore the surrounding area: 

On the second day, we decided to explore Helsingborg's surroundings - there is so much to see and do that you could spend several days taking it all in. We got around using e-bikes from the Travel Shop which are so much fun but not for the faint hearted! We were licking along, winding our way down county lanes and up steep hills without breaking into a bead of sweat and it was over 30 degrees celsius! A word of warning -  wear a helmet, take your time getting used to it and be careful in town!
Our first stop was Ödåkra Spritfabriken which is around 11km from the city centre. Built in 1897, the historical building served as a spirit distillery for a century and was recently taken over by multi-artist Andreas Wargenbrant who has transformed it into a creative space for arts, fashion, homeware and food. 
Enjoy browsing the shops (which include florist, antique and retro, clothing and homeware stores, then tuck into lunch at Italian restaurant Pappa Piada. It's famous for its piada - a thin Italian flatbread typically prepared in the Romagna region of Italy - but I have to say, the calamari was the best I've had! Afterwards, enjoy an artisanal beer at brewery Ødakra Brygghus

Wine tasting at Lottenlund Estate


Having tasted the local beer, it would have been rude not to sample the wine too. After all, did you know that Southern Sweden is pipped to gradually become a force to be reckoned with on the global wine scene? We whizzed down the country lanes to Lottenlund Estate vineyard to find out more. 

Make sure you book a tour in advance with the knowledgeable founder Tina Berthelsen. Inspired by a trip to Tuscany, Tina and her partner planted 30,000 vines in 2010, and today Lottenlund Estate produces white, rosé and red wine - all of which are available to taste. The Solaris grape is a fairly sour, so the wine is best paired with the right food - something which local chefs are extremely adept! 


Sofiero

On the way back to Helsingborg, stop in at Sofiero. The old royal summer residence features a magnificent palace and a beautiful park with views over the Öresund strait. Keep an eye out for seasonal events including light shows, Christmas markets, the rhododendron festival and summer dahlias as well as concerts and other special events. 

Wallåkra Stenkärlsfabrik

Fancy trying your hand at pottery? My daughters and I absolutely love Wallåkra Stenskärlsfabrik. Located a short 15 minute direct train ride from Helsingborg city centre, it's a perfect place to spend an afternoon. 

Book yourself in for a session on a pottery wheel and make your own creations using clay from the grounds before browsing the shop and enjoying a 'fika' (coffee and cake) in the cafe (the food in the restaurant is also excellent). Finish off by following the stream through the woods for an afternoon stroll in the steps of dinosaurs some 180 million years before!  

Phew, this guide turned out to be longer than I thought - and there's a lot to take in, I know. But I hope it will inspire you to visit Helsingborg one day! Please do share it with friends who might also feel inspired! 

If you're looking to combine Helsingborg with other places on your Scandinavian tour, it's well worth taking the 20-minute ferry-ride to Helsingør to explore the picturesque Danish town and magnificent Kronborg castle (home to Hamlet). Copenhagen and Malmö are also nearby. Four cities, two countries - one trip! 

I've tried to cover as much as possible in this guide, but there are so many other things to do in Helsingborg and the surrounding areas. If you have more tips to share - please fire away in the comment section below! 

A huge thank you to Evelina from Visit Helsingborg who shared her local knowledge with us and helped to book some of the places on our itinerary. It was a truly memorable weekend and we can't wait to come back with the girls (not least to visit 'Farmor' (Granny)!). 

Niki



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